HUNTING is another reason to travel to Black Lake. The Northern St. Lawrence County area of Upstate New York has some of the finest hunting that can be found in the entire United States.

Spring gobblers in May. Small Game, Turkey and Duck in September and early October. Big Game Archery season in September/October with Muzzleloader in October followed by Regular rifle. Thousands of acres of Wildlife Management Areas and State Forest lands are available just a short drive from Black Lake.

Fishing and Hunting License Fees

License Type	Fee
New York Resident
Senior Sportsman	$5
Seven-day Fishing	$12
Fishing	$19
Small & Big Game1	$19
Small Game	$16
Trapping	$16
Jr. Trapping	$6
Sportsman	$37
Bowhunting	$16
Muzzleloading	$16
Super Sportsman2	$68
Turkey Permit	$5
Conservation Legacy3	$76
Nonresident
Fishing	$40
Hunting	$55
Big Game	$110
Seven-day Fishing	$25
Muzzleloading	$110
Bowhunting	$110
Bear Tag	$30
Turkey Permit	$30
Super Sportsman	$250
Trapping	$255
Resident & Nonresident
Jr. Small Game	$5
Jr. Archery	$9
One-day Fishing	$15
Conservation Patron4	$12
Habitat & Access Stamp5	$5
Resident Lifetime Licenses
Sportsman6
child under 5 yrs old	$300
child 5-11 yrs old	$420
12-64 yrs old	$600
65 yrs and older	$50
Small and Big Game	$350
Fishing	$350
Trapping	$300
Bowhunting	$180
Muzzleloading	$180

Notes: 1New license type that allows the bearer to hunt both small and big game. The current big game license is eliminated. 2New license type that allows the bearer to hunt small game and big game, bow hunt, muzzle-loader hunt, hunt turkeys and fish. 3New license type that includes a super sportsman license, habitat and access stamp and subscription to The Conservationist. 4Purchase package that includes a subscription to the Conservationist and a habitat and access stamp. 5A voluntary stamp. Revenue from sale of this item will go into a dedicated account within the Conservation Fund and can only be used for projects to protect and improve habitat and to provide public access for fish and wildlife-related recreation. 6Lifetime turkey permit is included with purchase of a lifetime sportsman license. 7New license type. Replaces lifetime small game and lifetime big game licenses.

For additional information visit the NY DEC’s
Hunting License Information Page
OR
Complete Information can be found in the
New York State “Hunting and Trapping Regulations Guide”
as published by the Department of Enviromental Conservation.
This guide is available wherever you purchase your NY Hunting License or by contacting the
Department of Enviromental Conservation
Region 6 Headquarters
317 Washington St., Watertown, NY 13601
315-785-2262

This is, by no means, meant to be construed as a complete set of Regulations. These are just excerpts from the guide which is available in its entirety from any Dept. of Environmental Conservation Office or where you Purchase your Fishing license.

Please obtain a full copy and Obey our Conservation Laws.

Fishing License Requirements

• Everyone, except persons under 16 years of age, must have a valid fishing license in their possession while fishing.

License Privileges & Requirements

A Fishing License or Combined Hunting/Fishing License entitles the Holder to;

• Take fish by angling, spearing, hooking, long bow and tip-ups; take frogs by spearing, catching with the hands or by use of a club or hook; and take Bait fish for personal use, all as provided by the Laws and Regulations of the DEC.
• The holder of a License, Tag or Stamp shall have such License, Tag or Stamp on the holders person while exercising any privilege of that license.
• The holder of a License, Tag or Stamp shall exhibit it on demand to any Police Officer, Peace Officer or the Owner, Lessee or other person in control of the lands or waters on which the License holder is present.
• No License or Stamp authorizes the holder to Trespass upon private lands or waters or interfere with property belonging to another person.

Resident Fishing License

To qualify for a Resident Fishing License, One must;

• Be domiciled in New York State for more than 30 days immediately preceeding the date of application for a License ( Property Ownership is not required).
• Residency is that place where a person maintains a fixed, permanent and principle home and to which such person always intends to return, evidence of which includes that such person votes or is registered to vote in that place in elections for any Public office.

Purchasing a License

• Fishing licenses may be purchased Statewide from license issuing agents (town and county clerks, some major discount stores, and many sporting goods stores).
• Licenses may be obtained by mail using applications available from license issuing agents and submitted to: NYSDEC License Sales, Room 151, 50 Wolf Road, Albany, New York 12233-4790.

Everyone, except persons under 16 years of age, must have a valid fishing license in their possession while Fishing and Hunting.

New York Resident

Senior Sportsman $5
Seven-day Fishing $12
Fishing $19
Small & Big Game ¹ $19
Small Game $16
Trapping $16
Jr. Trapping $6
Sportsman $37
Bowhunting $16
Muzzleloading $16
Super Sportsman ² $68
Turkey Permit $5
Conservation Legacy  ³ $76

Nonresident

Fishing $40
Hunting $55
Big Game $110
Seven-day Fishing $25
Muzzleloading $110
Bowhunting $110
Bear Tag $30
Turkey Permit $30
Super Sportsman $250
Trapping $255

Resident & Nonresident

Jr. Small Game $5
Jr. Archery $9
One-day Fishing $15
Conservation Patron ⁴  $12
Habitat & Access Stamp ⁵  $5

Resident Lifetime Licenses

Sportsman ⁶
child under 5 yrs old $300
child 5-11 yrs old $420
12-64 yrs old $600
65 yrs and older $50
Small and Big Game $350
Fishing $350
Trapping $300
Bowhunting $180
Muzzleloading $180

To learn about equipment required aboard recreational vessels on New York State waters, please select one of the topics below.

Every pleasure vessel operated upon the waters of New York must carry at least one USCG approved Type I or II or III Personal Flotation Device (PFD), or Life Jacket as they are more commonly known, for each person on board. All PFDs on board your vessel must be:

• serviceable
  free of rot, tears, punctures, waterlogging and all straps functional.
• readily accessible
  quickly reachable in an emergency situation, never kept in plastic bags or under lock and key.
• appropriate size for the intended wearer
  check the USCG approval label for information on the intended user for a particular PFD.

Most of us don’t have enough natural buoyancy to keep afloat; a PFD is designed to make up the difference. You should periodically test your PFD in shallow water to see if it has sufficient buoyancy to keep you afloat. Many Type I and II PFDs consist of several kapok bags sewn into the device. Each bag must be airtight, otherwise water may seep into the bag causing the kapok to lose some or all of its buoyancy. You can test for leaks by squeezing the bags and listening for escaping air.

You should also check the straps and buckles of your PFD; a PFD will not work properly unless you are properly strapped into it. You should also check your PFD shell for tears in the fabric. Buoyant material may fall out of a tear. Leaving a PFD in with direct exposure to the sun may cause the shell fabric to severely weaken, and tear when worn.

If you are using a fully inflatable PFD, you should check the cylinder and lanyard before each use. You should also review the manufacturer’s instructions for establishing a maintenance schedule.
Exposure to oil or grease may cause deterioration as well; always store your PFDs in a dry, well ventilated place.

Children under the age of twelve must wear a Type I, II or III PFD on board a vessel unless they are in a fully enclosed cabin.

Effective for all waters, this type of lifejacket provides the most buoyancy. They are designed to turn most unconscious wearers in the water to a face-up position. There are two sizes: adult, with 22 lbs of buoyancy; and the children’s size with 11 lbs of buoyancy.

The near-shore buoyant vest is intended for calm, inland water, where there is a good chance of a quick rescue. This type of lifejacket will turn some wearers over, but not reliably. The adult vest provides 15.5 lbs of buoyancy, and the child’s vest 7 lbs.

Good for calm, inland water, where there is a good chance for immediate rescue. These are designed for special recreational activities such as water skiing. The Type III provides the same buoyancy as the Type II, but without any turning ability. They come in many colors and styles, and in general, are the most comfortable type of life jackets available.

These PFDs are designed to be thrown to a person in the water, and grasped and held until rescued. These devices are not intended to be worn. At least 1 Type IV PFD must be carried on all vessels 16′ or greater in length.

Special Use: Designed and approved for restricted uses or specific activities such as windsurfing or commercial whitewater rafting. This type of PFD is only acceptable when used for the activity for which it is designed. The label on the Type V PFD indicates the approved activity, restrictions or limitations, and equivalent performance type (whether its flotation is equivalent to a Type (I, II, OR III). If a Type V PFD is approved and identified for commercial use only, it does not satisfy requirements for recreational watercraft, unless otherwise specified. Special use Type V PFDs range in buoyancy from 15.5 to 22 pounds.

Hybrid Device: The hybrid Type V PFD uses inflation in addition to the type of buoyant flotation material found in traditional PFDS. To be acceptable for use on recreational craft, the hybrid Type V PFD must be worn, except when the boat is not under way, or when the boater is in an enclosed space, such as a boat cabin. It provides a minimum of 7.5 pounds of buoyancy when deflated, and 22 pounds when inflated. When fully inflated, a hybrid’s flotation performance is equivalent to that of a Type I, II, or III (the performance type will be marked on the label). A hybrid PFD is more comfortable than some other types of PFD because it is less bulky when deflated. Testing the hybrid in the water before use is recommended to determine whether the buoyancy inherent in the device when inflated provides sufficient flotation. For hybrids using CO 2 cartridges for inflation, the cartridges must be inspected periodically to ensure that they have not been spent. The user must accept the responsibility for the care of the device.

INFLATABLE PFDs

While the United States Coast Guard is now approving inflatable PFDs for use on recreational vessels, please keep in mind that while they are comfortable and lightweight, they are not suitable for non-swimmers, waterskiers, youths under the age of 12 and riders of personal watercraft.

• Outboards Less Than 26′ and of Open Construction – Exempt
• Less Than 26′ – One (1) USCG Approved Type B-1 Extinguisher
• 26′ to 40′ – Two (2) USCG Approved Type B-1 Extinguishers
• 40′ to 65′ – Three (3) USCG Approved Type B-1 Extinguishers
• On any vessel, a type B-II extinguisher may be substituted for two type B-1 extinguishers.
• Vessels equipped with approved fixed extinguishing systems may carry one less B-1 extinguisher.

The two most common types are Dry Chemical and Carbon Dioxide (CO2) extinguishers. Dry chemical is generally used on fires caused by flammable liquids such as fuel or grease (Class B fires) or electrical fires (Class C). CO2 extinguishers are effective against combustible solids (Class A) such as paper or wood as well as Class B or C fires.

Check your extinguishers frequently to ensure they are fully charged and undamaged. Check the pressure gauge or weigh it to determine the charge, and replace cracked or broken hoses. Also ensure that the hoses are clear of obstructions.

State law requires all mechanically propelled vessels 18 feet in length or greater to carry a distress flag, fluorescent orange in color and at least one foot square. In addition, these vessels must also carry three hand held red flares. The flares must be US Coast Guard approved. New flares generally have a three year service life, and the ones you carry must not be past their expiration date. Never use road flares on your boat; they produce hot slag which can drip and burn either you or your vessel.

There is some discrepancy between state and federal regulations for the carriage of visual distress signals (VDS). If you operate on the high seas, coastal waters or Great Lakes, the Coast Guard requires all vessels to carry visual distress signals. However, powerboats less than 16 feet, sailboats less than 26 feet, and all manually propelled vessels need only carry VDS when operating at night. Since the state has some jurisdiction in these areas, it is recommended that all vessels sixteen feet or greater in length carry at least three USCG approved hand held day/night flares at all times.

Vessels must display their required navigation lights at all times between sunset and sunrise, and during daylight periods of reduced visibility. Sail vessels less than 23 feet as well as manually propelled vessels may carry, in lieu of fixed lighting, a lantern with a white light that can be displayed in time to prevent a collision.

Law enforcement vessels may carry a blue, flashing light. No other vessels are permitted to carry a blue light. If you see this light, reduce speed, yield, and if necessary, stop your vessel.

Anchor Lights

All vessels between 7 (23.9′ ) and 50 (164.1′ ) meters in length, when at anchor, must exhibit an all around white light. By day, a black ball shape shall be exhibited.

Anchor

All mechanically propelled vessels must carry an anchor and line of sufficient weight and strength to provide the vessel with safe anchorage. Select an anchor for the types of waters in which you’ll be operating. The anchor line should be between 4 and 7 times the depth of the water in which you would normally anchor.

Whistle or Horn

All mechanically propelled vessels 26 feet and greater in length must carry a mechanical whistle or horn capable of producing a blast of two or more seconds in duration. On vessels less than 26 feet in length a mouth whistle may be used.

Bell

All vessels 26 feet and greater in length are required to have a bell. The purpose of the bell is to comply with the rules of the road when anchored or grounded in reduced visibility.

Other Recommended Equipment

• Tool kit
• First Aid kit
• Oar/Paddle
• Radio
• Spare lines
• Binoculars

Dead and dying fish are an ugly sight. Truth is, most species of fish are relatively short-lived and have a high rate of mortality. Even large fish, too large to be eaten by predators such as bass and pike, experience a death rate of approximately 50% per year. Fortunately, the deaths are usually spread-out over the year and are rarely observed or become a problem except when concentrated as a “fish kill”. The condition called “fish kill” occurs when a number of fish in a given body of water die from a specific cause. Most of the time, fish kills are due to natural causes over which we have no control, such as weather. Only occasionally is death directly related to pollution or improper use of herbicides or other chemicals. Only a fraction of the dead fish are ever observed because many decompose on the bottom or are eaten by scavengers such as turtles and crayfish. Natural fish kills are of three basic seasonal types:

• WINTER KILL, which occurs in late winter but may not be seen until early spring.
• SPRING KILL, which is occurs in late May to early June
• SUMMER KILL, which occurs on the hottest days of mid summer.

WINTER KILL

Winter kill is the most common type of fish kill. When severe, it has devastating effects on fish populations and fishing quality. Winter kill occurs during especially long, harsh winters. Shallow lakes with excess amounts of aquatic vegetation and mucky bottoms are prone to this problem. The results of a winter kill are seldom noticed until spring when the ice melts. Then the dead fish, often the larger ones, are seen washing up along the edge. Because they require more oxygen, the large fish suffocate and die first. Winter kill begins with distressed fish gasping for air at holes in the ice and ends with large numbers of dead fish which bloat as the water warms in early spring. Dead fish may appear fuzzy because of secondary infection by fungus, but the fungus was not the cause of death.

Actually, the fish suffocated from lack of dissolved oxygen. Trace amounts of dissolved oxygen (measured in parts per million, ppm) are required by fish and all other forms of aquatic life. Even living plants and the bacteria that decompose organic materials on the bottom of the lake require oxygen. As a rule of thumb, the critical level of oxygen is about 2 ppm for most game fish native to warmwater lakes, and levels below 1 ppm for extended periods of time are lethal.

But species of fish vary in their tolerance of low oxygen. Trout are most sensitive; walleye, bass, and bluegill have intermediate sensitivity; and northern pike, yellow perch, and pumpkinseed are relatively tolerant. Bullheads and certain minnows are very tolerant. Lakes prone to periodic winterkill can often be detected from the composition of their fish populations – tolerant species predominate, sensitive species are rare, and prey greatly outnumber predators. Fortunately, usually enough fish survive, either in the lake or in connecting waters, to repopulate the lake in a couple of years. Only for extreme die-offs is fish restocking necessary.

The dissolved oxygen content of water depends primarily on three variables. These are the amount of mixing with the air above the lake, the rate of oxygen production by plants, and the rate of oxygen consumption (respiration) by living aquatic organisms. During periods of prolonged ice cover, the lake is sealed off from the atmosphere and cannot be recharged with oxygenated air. Furthermore, ice and snow reduce the amount of sunlight reaching aquatic plants, thereby reducing photosynthesis and oxygen production. (During photosynthesis, living plants use sunlight energy and carbon dioxide to make plant tissue and dissolved oxygen). Meanwhile, on-going consumption of oxygen depletes the supply of oxygen stored in the lake when the lake froze over. Shallow, productive lakes are at a disadvantage because they have a low storage capacity and high rates of oxygen-consuming decomposition.

In northern NY, January is usually a critical period and is the best time to check the oxygen content of lakes prone to winterkill. A good midwinter thaw about then often recharges the lake’s oxygen supply by means of photosynthesis and melt water. Conversely, a prolonged winter, with continuous snow cover and late ice-out, increases the chance of winterkill.

The only long-term solution for winterkill lakes is to reverse the natural process of filling and enrichment (eutrophication). Dredging or sucking bottom sediments can increase the volume of water, reduce the nutrient-rich sediment, and reduce the growth of nuisance plants. However, such projects are extremely costly, require a site for disposing of the bottom material, and may require a permit. Lake residents can help slow down the rate of eutrophication by keeping all types of plant fertilizers out of the lake.

SPRING KILL

Spring kill occurs in lakes and rivers when fish survive the winter but die as the water warms rapidly in May and June. It rarely claims many fish and is usually over in a couple of weeks. Spring kill is almost always due to natural causes beyond our influence. The usual victims are large bluegills and crappies, and other fish which spawn in the spring such as perch, bass, pike and suckers.

A combination of stresses is usually responsible. Fish come through the winter in a weakened condition because they’ve been eating at a reduced rate. As the water warms, their metabolism increases and they divert much energy to strenuous spawning activities. In lakes, additional stress may be added during “turnover”, which is when wave action stirs up bottom water low in oxygen and high in noxious gases. Diseases and parasites also become more active and on a few occasions have been implicated in fish kills.

SUMMER KILL

Summer kill The most common cause of summer fish kill is the same as winter kill oxygen depletion. But the causes of depletion may be more complex than with winter kills. Summer depletion can result from oxygen removal by excessive quantities of plants, animals or decaying organic mater. This can be caused by overstocking, overfeeding, over fertilization, pollution from barns, feedlots, improper septic drainage, or chemical treatment of aquatic weeds during the critical months June through September.

Another common cause of summer fish kills occurs when a dense growth of submerged aquatic plants or algae in a pond dies suddenly from natural causes or from herbicides.

The decay process from the dead plants may use up the oxygen in the water. This type of summer fish kill almost always happens about sunrise, when the dissolved oxygen is at its low point for the day.

Another condition leading to summer fish kill, and related to the plant die-off, is high water temperatures. During July, and especially in August, water temperatures in ponds may reach 85°-95°F. Water can hold much less oxygen when its temperature is above 80°F.

When overcast skies persist for several days, while temperatures are high and winds are calm, a fish kill may occur. Plants cannot produce sufficient oxygen at reduced light levels and calm weather reduces the exposure of water to oxygen in the air. Therefore, the dissolved oxygen may disappear entirely.

Lightning strike A very unique type of fish kill is caused by a lightning strike on water. Death occurs immediately. Large fish, which draw more electricity than small fish, may be killed selectively.

In conclusion, the risk of some types of fish kills can be reduced by keeping as many nutrients out of the water as possible. Sources of nutrients include septic fields, fertilized lawns and farm fields, and wastes from livestock and waterfowl (including tame geese). Reducing nutrient input starts the following favorable chain reaction: production by aquatic plants is reduced, less decomposition is required, and oxygen will not become depressed to critical levels.

Natural fish kills are obnoxious, and may affect fishing and predator-prey “balance” for years. However, they are often not serious in the long run because lakes contain thousands of fish per acre. They may be thought of as nature’s way of thinning out fish populations. Usually, fish kills indicate that the habitat is of marginal quality for certain species because of a broad range of weather conditions. Infrequently, fish kills indicate habitat or pollution problems we may be able to correct. And sometimes, fish kills beneficially reduce over-populated, slow-growing panfish and actually increase growth rates and improve fishing.