There is nothing like the peaceful silence on a clear, cold day with the brilliant winter sunshine sparkling over the white expanse of your favorite lake. Ice fishing can add many months to your enjoyment of fishing. It is also a wonderful way to enjoy the great outdoors during a beautiful time of year. All you need to get started is warm clothes and a minimum amount of special equipment and you’re ready to go.

You can get started ice fishing with a minimum amount of equipment and listed here is a list of the basic items that you will need to make the time you spend on the ice productive and enjoyable. Remember, you will have to choose your gear to match up with the fish you are after, generally the larger the fish, the heavier the tackle.

Ice spud or auger….

The first thing you will need is an ice spud or an auger to get through the ice. ice auger An ice spud is the most economical to purchase or you can make one for little cost but it should be heavy with a sharp chisel head to make cutting through the ice as easy as possible. An ice spud can be used when the ice gets thicker, but a hand auger will work a bit easier. The hand auger makes short work of thick ice and there are several nice models out there and it is hard to choose one that could be considered the best.

Another item that is nice to have is a “power” ice auger if you live in an area where the ice gets very thick. If you have to go through over three feet of ice before hitting water, a power auger will make short work of going through that much ice. Considerably more expensive but an absolute most for the really thick ( 3′ to 4’+ ) ice. There is nothing more frustrating than getting the fish to your hole and finding that it will not fit through it. An ice spud can enlarge the hole to get the fish landed.

Ice skimmer….

You also need an ice skimmer to remove the ice and snow from the hole you just made, it looks like a small colander with a handle attached. They come made out of plastic or aluminum but be careful! There has been more than one person who has had it slip out of their hand and go down the hole.

Rods….Think small. Put your 6’6″ graphite rod away from the soft water season as it has no place on the ice. Use ultra-light rods with a length of thirty inches or less no more. Ice fishing rods are readily available and are relatively inexpensive. Most ice fishing ice jigging rodsrods will accept any type of reel you choose and use slip rings to secure the reel. Adding a little electrical tape is always a good idea.

There are many different kinds and styles of jigging rods, and the most important thing is to get one you are comfortable with. You need a rod that will let you feel the lightest hit. Remember, the water is COLD and the fish sluggish, so the hits are generally light and hard to feel.icereel1

By using the ultra-light rods and light lines as suggested you have traded off “fish fighting ability” to attract and hook more fish. To compensate for this trade off you will need a very good drag system that will allow a fighting fish to easily pull out more icereel3icereel4line.

Ice anglers use a wide variety of reels including fly, baitcasting, spinning, and closed bail reels. The later is often used as it prevents ice and snow from interfering with the line, although most closed bails do not have the best drag system. For this reason spinning reels appear to win out over all other choices.

Use Cold Water Line….

Most monofilaments do not perform well in cold water. The biggest problem is coil retention or “memory” that will severely affect your fishing success. Remember you will be using jigs as small as 1/64th ounce. Four pound test in clear/invisible works as good as any and is capable of handling most pan fish. If you are fishing for the larger species, then and only then go with a stronger line. Avoid fluorescent colors as the fish will see it and might not bite. Braided lines work well in the cold water as far as memory and toughness goes, yet they are usually not very transparent and easily spotted by the fish.

Baits….

Grubs and small worms are by far the most productive baits for panfish such as bluegill, crappie, perch and rock bass. Baitfish such as minnows, chubs and shiners do well for crappie and perch and are highly favored by bigger game-fish such as bass, pike and walleye. You could also use meat baits, such as strips of belly meat from previously caught fish, perch eyes and strips of raw beef. Artificial lures are also the norm.

Grubs and Minnows….

Many types of small worms and grubs work well for ice fishing, and some of the best can be purchased by the dozen from bait shops. Grubs, waxworms and mousees are top panfish baits and are usually readily available. Meal worms are easy to raise, although they are not usually as effective as waxworms or mousees. Natural baits gathered from the wild are another alternative. However, gathering bait from the wild can be tedious, and the supply is not always dependable. Minnows are readily available from bait shops wherever ice fishing is popular. Small and medium-size minnows work well on crappie and perch, while medium and large minnows also entice bass, walleye, pike and other big fish.

Lure-Bait Combos….

Artificial lures also are used by ice fishermen, though they are rarely used alone. Most anglers use artificial lures sweetened with live. The flash and action of the hardware attracts a fish’s attention, while the food appeals to its appetite. The most common artificial and bait combination is the small panfish jig of the “teardrop” variety combined with a grub-type worm such as a waxworm. Many anglers believe this combo is unbeatable for bluegill, and it also works well on other panfish and bass. “Teardrop” is the commercial name of one particular lure, but the word is commonly applied to many lures of the same general type. Generally, the smaller ones, those constructed on No. 8 or No. 10 hooks and measuring less than one-half inch overall, are the most effective for bluegill. Other artificial-and-bait combination lures include standard open-water jigs and spoons enhanced with a minnow or grub. A particularly potent bait for yellow perch is a small spoon, jig, teardrop or a plain hook baited with a perch eye. Spoons are commonly used through he ice. They flutter and flash effectively when jigged up and down-about the only motion the lure can make when it is fished vertically through a small hole.

The above items will get you started into the sport of ice fishing at a minimal cost. Just be sure to dress warm and have a good time!!

Another item is tip-ups….

this contraption is a must have in any ice fishing box. There are several different styles and makes to choose from ranging in price from $5.00 to $25.00. The most important thing is to get one that has a free turning spool so when a fish takes your bait it doesn’t feel the spool as it is taking out line.

Pictured to the left is the most common type of tip-up used ice fishing and cost anywhere from $5.00 to $10.00 in any sporting goods store. The horizontal sticks sets over the hole and the spool that holds the fishing line sets in the water under the ice to keep it from freezing. There is a wire trigger that runs to the spring wire that has the flag attached that holds it down until a fish strikes, this releases the spring wire and allows the flag to pop up letting you know that there is a fish on.

The spool is free spinning so if a fish runs after hitting the bait it will feel no resistance, causing the fish to spit the bait. This is a good setup for pike, trout, walleye and perch and is the type used most often.

To setup this type of tip up you tie a hook to the end of the line placing a small split shot about 12 inches above the hook. Use only enough weight to carry your bait to the depth you wish to be fishing.

Now you clip a depth finder to the hook (merely a lead weight with a spring clip on it) and drop it in the hole, allowing it to go to the bottom. Then you raise it to the depth you wish to fish at and mark the line at the spool with a small split shot so if you have to re-bait you already know how much line to run down without having to measure the depth again.

I use minnows mostly when fishing tip-ups but you can use about any kind of natural bait you wish. Lures are not effective on these due to the fact that they will impart no movement to the lure so there will be no action to attract fish to hit, although there are tip ups that will bob your bait up and down due to the wind. I hear they are effective, but haven’t tried them myself.

You can also make a cover to place over the hole to keep the light from shining down into it. This will some times spook the fish and keep them from hitting when fishing in shallow and/or clear water. A piece of cardboard with a slit in it to slide over the tip up works well and is easy to come by. There are tip ups that cover the hole and they work very well, but they are a tad bit more expensive. If price is not a concern then by all means get a couple of these. They are nice if the wind is up , they will not tip over if it is windy because of their low profile and rarely do they give you a “wind hit”.

Still more gear??….

Some items that you can get along without, but will make for a more comfortable time on the frozen water.

Ice fishing shanty….

One of the nicest things to have is an ice fishing shanty, even on the coldest days you are out of the wind and toasty warm. Traditionally the shanty is a small wooden shed with holes in the floor to fish through but now there are any number of portable ice fishing shelters you can buy that will fit in the trunk of a car when it is broken down.

Portable fish finder….

Another nice thing to have is a portable fish finder that runs on batteries and this is one luxury that anglers find the most useful. You can check the depth of the water and locate fish without getting a line wet. This sure takes a lot of the guess work out of looking for drop offs and other structure. There are several models and types of fish finders made for the ice fisherman and the prices range from $100.00 to $500.00.

USE COMMON SENSE ON THE ICE

For Ice fishing, ice skating, snowmobiling and other activities that may find us wondering if it’s safe to venture onto a frozen pond or lake.
Ice doesn’t always form in a uniform thickness over a water body. So people can sometimes feel that the ice is safe in one place, when it’s actually very thin nearby. That false sense of security can have deadly consequences.

Here are a few guidelines for ice safety that could save your life.

Before venturing onto the ice the first thing you should know..

“IS THE ICE SAFE????”

ICE THICKNESS TABLE

Ice Thickness	Permissible Load
2 inches	one person on foot
3 inches	group in single file
7.5 inches	one car (2 tons)
8 inches	light truck (2.5 tons)
10 inches	truck (3.5 tons)
12 inches	heavy truck (7-8 tons)
15 inches	10 tons
20 inches	25 tons

Note: This guide is based on clear, blue, hard ice on non-running waters. Slush ice is about 50 percent weaker. Clear, blue ice over running water is about 20 percent weaker. Many ice anglers do not like to fish on less than five inches of ice, and do not like to drive a pick-up truck on less than 15 inches of ice. Remember this is just a Guide, Use common sense before venturing out onto the lake or river!

Here are a few ice safety tips that ice fishermen and winter sports enthusiasts should keep in mind before venturing out on a frozen lake.

Go out with a buddy and keep a good distance apart as you walk out. If one of you goes in the other can call for help.

Leave information about your plans with someone — where you intend to fish and when you plan to return.

Wear a life jacket. Life vests or float coats provide excellent flotation and protection from hypothermia (loss of body temperature).

Check for known thin ice areas with a local bait shop. Using the above Guide, test the thickness yourself using an ice chisel, an auger, spud, axe or even a cordless drill with a 6 inch or longer bit make test holes at intervals as you proceed.

If you must drive a vehicle. be prepared to leave it in a hurry – keep windows down, unbuckle your seat belt and have a simple emergency plan of action you have discussed with your passengers. Don’t drive across ice at night or when it is snowing. Reduced visibility increases your chances for driving into an open or weak ice area.

Don’t “overdrive” your headlight’s. At even 30 miles per hour, it can take a much longer distance to stop on ice than your headlight shines. Many fatal snowmobile through-the-ice accidents occur because the machine was travelling too fast for the operator to stop when the headlamp illuminated the hole in the ice.

Wear a life vest under your winter gear or one of the new flotation snowmobile suits. And it’s a good idea to carry a pair of ice picks that may be purchased from most well stocked sporting goods stores. It’s amazing how difficult it can be to pull yourself back onto the surface of unbroken but wet and slippery ice with a snowmobile suit weighted down with 60 lbs of water. The ice picks really help pulling yourself back onto solid ice.

CAUTION: Do NOT wear a flotation device when travelling across the ice in an enclosed vehicle!

WHAT IF YOU FALL IN?

Having taken all of these precautions, you’re now going to try your luck at fishing. Walking out on the ice, you hear a crack and break through. Suddenly you find yourself immersed up to your neck in water so cold it takes your breath away. If you think that’s no big deal, try holding your hands in a bucket of ice water for more than a couple of minutes. If you can do it without extreme pain, you are tougher than the average person.

Try not to panic. Instead, remain calm and turn toward the direction you came from. Place your hands and arms on the unbroken surface of the ice (here’s where the ice picks come in handy.) Work forward on the ice by kicking your feet. If the ice breaks, maintain your position and slide forward again. Once you are lying on the ice, don’t stand. Instead, roll away from the hole. That spreads out your weight until you are on solid ice. This sounds much easier than it is to do. The best advice is don’t put yourself into needless danger by venturing out too soon or too late in the season. No angler, no matter how big of a fishing enthusiast, would want to die for a crappie.

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO IF A COMPANION FALLS THROUGH THIN ICE?

• Keep calm and think out a solution.
• Don’t run up to the hole. You’ll probably break through and then there will be two victims.
• Use some item on shore to throw or extend to the victim to pull them out of the water such as a tree limb, rope, jumper cables or skis, or push your ice fishing sled ahead of you.
• If you can’t rescue the victim immediately, call 911. It’s amazing how many people carry cellphones.
• Get medical assistance for the victim.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

Carry a set of hand spikes. Ice picks work well or you can make these at home, using large nails, or you can purchase good ones at stores that sell fishing supplies. Screwdrivers will also work.
Carry a 50′ safety rope that can be thrown to someone who has gone through the ice.
If you have a cell phone, bring it along, it could prove to be vital for your party or somebody else.

FROSTBITE AND HYPOTHERMIA

Frostbite
Occurs when the skin and subcutaneous tissue begins freezing. It can be easily remedied if detected in the early stages, or severe enough to require amputation of the affected areas. Symptoms become apparent when the skin turns waxy white, to yellow and is hard and cold to the touch. Initial pain turns into numbness. Toes, fingers, nose, ears and cheeks are the most vulnerable. If you suspect frostbite, warm the affected area by pressing it against a warm part of the body or immerse in luke-warm water (104-110 deg.F). Excessively hot water will damage the fragile tissue. Rubbing a frostbitten area in the more advanced stages will also cause damage. Avoid tobacco products because nicotine will restrict vital blood circulation. Finally, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Hypothermia
Despite all the precautions that anglers take, a few go through the ice each year, and all ice anglers should know something about rescue techniques and first aid for hypothermia. Drowning is one immediate danger, But usually the victims are able to keep their heads above water by clinging to the edge of the broken ice or to floating gear. Most fatalities are caused by hypothermia. Hypothermia occurs when the body begins to lose heat faster than it can produce it. The symptoms become apparent, and include; uncontrollable shivering, slow or slurred speech, incoherence, fumbling hands, stumbling, apparent exhaustion, drowsiness which causes loss of the use of limbs, disorientation, unconsciousness and, finally, heart failure.

In Both Above Cases, If a person shows any signs of overexposure to cold or wet and windy weather, take the following measures, even if the person claims to be in no difficulty. Often the person will not realize the seriousness of the situation. If your party is out on the ice with no shelter, seek out a shanty for heat and protection from the elements. Get the person into dry clothing with a warm (not hot) water bottle of some sort, concentrate heat on the torso. Supply warm drinks. Keep the head low and the feet up to get warm blood circulating to the head. Insulate the victim’s trunk, head and neck from additional heat loss. Under no circumstances should the victim be given alcoholic beverages which diminish shivering, thus reducing heat production. Alcohol also causes dilation of surface blood vessels, causing more heat loss. Avoid pain relievers, they will slow the body metabolism. Tobacco products will restrict vital blood circulation. People subjected to cold water may seem fine but after being rescued can suffer a potentially fatal condition called “after-drop”. That may occur when cold blood that is pooled in the body’s extremities starts to circulate again as the victim starts to rewarm. Summon a vehicle to get to shore and arrange medical help. Call for professional medical assistance immediately. This is when a cell phone could come in handy. Hypothermia and frost bite should only be treated at a hospital.

Fortunately, rescue and first aid are very seldom necessary. However, since the sport is constantly attracting newcomers and since even veterans are subject to occasional human error, it’s best that anglers be prepared for any unexpected situation and learn emergency measures even though they may never have to apply them.

Fishing ethics could be evaluated as what anglers do when they are unobserved.

Ethics govern impulses when no one is looking.

Basically, fishing ethics is conscience.

Millions of anglers fish. Without ethical anglers following fisheries regulations, there would soon be little of value left to catch.

Ethical fishermen don’t keep fish caught out of season. They don’t keep egg-bearing females during the sport season either. Without ethical fishermen highly valued species could literally be eliminated from a fishery.

Ninety-nine out of a hundred anglers are law abiding. Based on arrest records, that one-in-100 violator adds up to appalling 30,000 law breakers every year.

LIMIT YOUR TAKE; DON’T TAKE THE LIMIT.

While there is nothing illegal about taking home a full limit of fish, day after day, that number adds up to more fresh fish than most of us could comfortably eat, and results in unnecessary stress on fish populations. The brightest hope for continued availability of sportfish is for all of us to limit our take, rather than take our limit.

Diversity is another answer for the ethical angler. By targeting more than one species of fish, pressured fish populations will receive a needed rest.

Fish have invaluable worth as living creatures to be admired for their beauty and grace; appreciated for their individual adaptations for survival. By learning respect for all the forces that must work in harmony to produce a healthy marine resource, we can ensure good fishing for generations to come. After all, respect for nature and for other anglers is what fishing ethics is all about.

THE ETHICAL ANGLER:

Can identify most of the species commonly caught in their area, and knows the current regulations for each. Understands the legal requirements for licenses and stamps.

Appreciates the importance of habitat and a clean environment. Knows how to fight and release fish in a manner that gives the fish the best possible chance of survival.

Understands and observes safe boating practices; is conscious of his boat’s wake, and does not speed past anchored boats, anglers on shore, swimmers or non-motorized craft.

is courteous of others and does not “move in” on another fishermen’s spot.

Keeps trash out of the water, disposing of fishing line, napkins, food containers and other waste in a proper receptacle ashore.

Shares his ethics and expertise with others.

Abides by the law, and is not afraid to report those who do not.

Information provided by IGFA

TREBLE HOOK
Triples the odds of your catching a fish.
Quadruples the odds of your getting the hook caught in your thumb.

“THUMB”
A temporary hook holder.

With the above in mind, Please read on…

HOOK REMOVAL

It’s time to start cleaning your lures and sharpening those hooks. This year might prove to be a great one. There’s a lot of fish in Black Lake just waiting to be caught and sometimes scalps, fingers, hands, arms, legs, thighs, knees and an occasional rear end.

The most common accident during fishing season involves hooks. The second most common hazard facing anglers is getting too much sun. Both are easily avoided. Sunscreen and a hat will handle the sun and a first aid kit with a little knowledge of how to use it will take care of the hook problems.

The most important tool any angler should always have with him/her for removing a hook is a sharp pair of wire cutting pliers.

Here are a few methods for removing hooks.

When a hook’s point and barb are protruding out the skin, it’s easier to cut off the barb and back the hook out of the wound. This is when those sharp wire cutters come in handy.

The best method that seems to be recognized by most experienced hook remover professionals and even by some doctors is called the snatch method. No matter where the hook ends up this method works.

This method is quick, simple and relatively painless, as long as you get it on the first try. The secret to a first time success is yanking the loop of line, which is wrapped around the embedded hook, rather hard so the hook comes out on the first try. The reason you should get it out on the first try is obvious, the patient might not stick around for a second try.

The snatch method of hook removal is simple and effective, It’s the best method to remove a hook that’s deeply imbedded in the skin and when the barb is buried.

To perform the snatch method when the barb is imbedded, all that’s needed is a short length of fishing line, at least 10 pound test, approximately 2 feet long.

1. Remove hook from lure.
2. Double the fishing line and loop it around the hook, as close to the skin’s surface as possible.
3. Hold onto both ends of the doubled line, wrapping them around your hand for a firm grip and holding the line parallel to the skin’s surface in line with the hook.
4. With your other hand, press the eye of the hook down onto the surface of the skin and back toward the hook’s bend, as if trying to back the hook out of the wound.
5. While pressing on the hook eye, yank the line sharply, parallel to the skin and in line with the hook, to snap the hook back out of the wound.
6. Apply antibiotic ointment, bandage wound and check to make sure tetanus shots are current.

First Aid Kit

A basic onboard first aid kit for anglers should contain sunscreen, small bottle of hydrogen peroxide, alcohol wipes. bandages, gauze, tape, hydrocortisone cream for poison ivy and other itchy rashes, antibiotic ointment (Bacitracin or Neosporin) and aspirin. Another essential should be a brand new pair of needle-nosed and wire cutting pliers, sealed in a seal-lock plastic baggy. All Anglers, especially those using worms, should always have their tetanus shot up to date. The tetanus germs are usually spread in soil.

OK, With that said..
Lets go fishing and get that big one that got away last year!

NYS Department of Conservation
Region 6 Headquarters
317 Washington St., Watertown, NY 13601
315-785-2262

Sharp hooks and good knots are essential factors in fishing. Most break offs are due to poor knots. It is essential to spend time on learning a few basic knots and, when tying them, take time and do a good job. I speak from experience when I say it is disappointing to lose a big fish when a knot slips or breaks.

Knot Graphics acquired from Berkley Tackle Products

THE SLIP STOP

The bobber fisherman uses a slip bobber for casting and general handiness, and stops the bobber from running up the line by using the Slip Stop. It has the advantage that the stops moves readily over the rod guides, but grips the monofilament nylon tightly that it will not slide over the line. It should be made with about 5 inches of nylon, usually the same diameter as the line itself.

1. Take 2 turns (3 if necessary) around the main line.
2. Bring both ends around to form a Surgeon’s Knot.
3. Tighten into shape bringing the coils close together.
4. Trim off excess line as close to knot as possible.
5. Slide the stop up or down the line to adjust the distance between the bobber and the lure/bait.

Does this stuff really work? Read on…

Ever checked a Solunar Table? How about a Tide Chart or Moon Phase Calendar? Does this stuff really work? The answer is yes, but it’s not infallible, because Solar periods, moon phases, and moon position are still affected by weather (especially changes in barometric pressure).

Many predatory fish have eyes that adjust to changes in light faster than their prey’s eyes. This means that most gamefish know from experience that they can catch baitfish more easily at dawn and dusk, which makes dawn and dusk two key solar periods. Fish also get hungry between these big meals, so they’ll often feed sometime during mid-day. As a result, there are usually three or four “solar periods,” including dawn, dusk and one or two mid-day periods. These periods are one of the ingredients in a Solunar Table.

Fish, like most wildlife and even humans, are directly influenced by lunar phases and moon position. More than three-fourths of the record gamefish are caught within three days before, three days after, or during a new moon or full moon. The reason is still a mystery, though there are some theories that would probably bore the average reader. We do know that the full moon provides the most night-time light and the new moon provides no moonlight. The important thing is that more and bigger fish can generally be caught just before, just after or during a new moon or full moon. These moon phases are another element in Solunar Tables and are a good reason why many anglers buy calendars that show the moon phase.

The moon’s gravitational pull creates the tides and also seems to directly affect gamefish appetites. When the moon is overhead, it creates the highest high tide of the day (called a “spring” tide) and for some reason, it makes fish hungry. When the moon is underfoot, it creates the second, slightly lower, high tide of the day (called a “neap” tide) and it also seems to make fish hungry. These moon positions influence freshwater fish as well as ocean fish. Lunar positions are the third key in a Solunar Table and they are the main reason that many good anglers buy tide charts, even anglers who don’t fish in salt water.

Days on or near the key moon phases (usually new or full) are listed on most Solunar Tables as good fishing days. The times of day when the moon position (overhead or underfoot) and major solar periods (dawn, dusk, noon, etc.) coincide are called the best fishing times. Days that don’t occur on key moon phases and times of day when the solar periods and moon position don’t occur at the same time are listed as only fair or poor.

Remember that Solunar Tables, Tide Charts and Moon Phase Calendars don’t guarantee fishing success. Fish are wild, unpredictable animals and there are other variables that influence their behavior, many of which are difficult or impossible to predict. That’s what makes fishing challenging and fun! But there is another factor than can help to predict fish behavior- weather.

Fish are directly influenced by weather, probably at least as much as they are affected by solar periods, moon phases and moon position. Weather is too unpredictable to put on a chart that is published several months in advance. Bright sunlight can bother fish and kill periods of activity or cause fish to take their activity into shaded or deeper water. Fish prefer some cloud cover or haze and are likely to be more active over a greater range of water and to have wider “strike zones” (meaning they will travel farther to attack a lure or bait) on partly cloudy to fully cloudy days. Wind can drive baitfish or insects to the downwind side of a lake and gamefish usually follow. Extreme wind can ruin fishing or make it difficult or dangerous for fishermen to be on or near the water. Another weather pattern that makes a big difference is barometric pressure. When the TV weather forecaster talks about “high pressure” or “low pressure” zones moving in, he or she is talking about barometric pressure. Fish are more active during periods of low pressure and less active during periods of high pressure. If you don’t want to buy and learn to read a barometer, you can get a pretty good feel for barometric pressure just by walking outside. If it’s hot and muggy with very few clouds, it’s a high-pressure period and the fish will be less active. If it’s getting colder, clouds are moving in, or it’s starting to rain or snow, it’s a low-pressure period and fish will probably be more active.

Does all this confusing information mean that fish can only be caught on cool, cloudy days when a full or new moon is directly overhead or underfoot at dawn or dusk? No, but it does mean that fish are the most likely to be the most active at those times. It means that a smart angler will try active-fish techniques first, like using a faster retrieve, brighter colored lures, and/or larger baits. It also means that on bright, sunny, hot days and at times when the moon is not in the best phase or position, a smart angler will try inactive fish techniques first, including slower retrieves, natural or subdued colors, and/or smaller baits. Finally, it means that a smart angler will also be ready to try something else if the first thing doesn’t work.

To find a good, free Solunar Table for Black Lake Click Here.

How many times have you taken out your tackle after being stored all winter and regretted that you did not take the time to properly clean and store your tackle? Bent rods, frayed line, and rough gears are symptoms of improper tackle maintenance and storage during the off season. Smart anglers know the true meaning of “a stitch in time saves nine.” Often, gear is thrown in a basement corner or shelf in the garage and abandoned after that final fishing trip. When the fisherman is ready for great spring fishing, his gear isn’t.

BEFORE STORING YOUR TACKLE FOR THE WINTER

• I suggest respooling all reels with new line before storing or at least check spooled line for nicks, cuts and frays. Replace and properly discard of any damaged sections.
• Store line in a dry, dark place where it won’t be in direct sunlight. Sunlight and battery acid are about the only things that can damage monofilament or cofilament line. Exposure to gas, oil, insect repellent, sunscreen lotion, saltwater, rust inhibitors and detergents may cause the line to smell.
• Clean your tackle box and lures with fresh water and separate the lures in compartments in an orderly fashion. Place the topwater baits in the top trays, then sub-surface lures in the next level and so on.
• Clean and lubricate reels then place them in plastic zip lock bags to keep dirt and grime out and the oil in. This is a good time to return damaged reels to the manufacturer for repair. They should be back in time for the first of the season.
• Sharpen all hooks and sort them in the tackle box.
• Store rods by hanging them straight down from nails or cup hooks. Refrain from leaning them against walls, which over several months can produce a permanent bend.
• Store the tackle box in a warm, dry place. Storing the box in a car trunk, an unheated shed, or damp basement will hurt the finish and working condition of most baits.

Storing tackle for long periods of time basically is just common sense. Besides doubling the life of your tackle, it avoids wasted time and costly misfortunes when the fishing fever is hot again.

There is no fish so proud that it won’t give in to the wriggling temptation of a sultry nightcrawler.

Many natural baits attract only a few species, but nearly all freshwater fish eat worms. How many of you cut your teeth on fishing with worms but have since forgotten them in favor of artificial lures. Artificials have their place, as do earthworms or nightcrawlers. At certain times, a wise angler will use a piece of worm to enhance their artificial presentation. Nightcrawlers get their name from the fact that they come to the surface at night. Since worms breathe through their skins, nightcrawlers will come to the surface when water fills their tunnels. Being more active in darkness, because of their natural habitat, allows one to harvest their supply most readily at night. Anglers are often puzzled on how to catch worms and keep them alive for a day’s fishing. Catching worms and keeping them alive and kicking is not difficult.

Worms, whether earthworms or nightcrawlers, are the most popular live baits.

They like warm and wet weather. Wait until it has been dark for at least two to three hours, then prowl around your lawn, a golf course or a park. To gather nightcrawlers, you have to see them. A flashlight works well, but a headlamp is even better because it leaves your hands free for picking. Bright white light drives night crawlers underground. Cover the lens of your flashlight with red cellophane or use a dim light. Walk softly: worms are very sensitive to vibration and will retreat if disturbed. When you spy a nightcrawler, grasp it quickly it by the head (the thicker end) with your fingers. Don’t jerk the worm from the ground, use a firm, slow, steady pull or it will break and the worm becomes the winner as it has the capability to regenerate either end of its body. If the worm tries to shoot back into the hole, hold onto one end until the worm releases tension and is free of the hole.

If you want to keep a good supply of worms on hand, build a worm box.

In a 2′ x 3′ x 2′ box you can house 500 nightcrawlers. Resist the urge to over harvest. Besides wasting a natural resource, overcrowding will stress your bait, making them less appealing to the fish, if not cause a complete loss of what you collected. For bedding, fill the box with soil or damp shredded newspaper. Commercially available worm bedding, slightly dampened, makes a good soil substitute. If you do use soil, remember that moist and not wet is the key. Sink the box in a shady spot, leaving two inches of the box above ground. Damp and cool are the key words in keeping worms fresh. A cool storage area (40° – 60°:F) will allow you to keep your worms for an extended period. A wet burlap bag over some straw will work well. You might also try spreading out a few handfuls of ice cubes on the straw every two or three days. The ice will keep the bedding damp and cool. Ice cubes, incidentally, can be used when transporting and keeping worms on an extended fishing trip. Chlorine in water supplies can be a problem. De-chlorination is accomplished by allowing your next change of water to stand for 24 hours before introducing it to your bait. Some tackle shops will carry de- chlorination supplies.

Try the following method on your next trip:

in the center of your bait box, which should measure about 12″ x 12″ x 8″ if you’re carrying 400 or so worms, clear a space in the bedding. Next, fill a glass jar or plastic container with ice cubes, screw the top back on and put it in a plastic bag. Place the container in the center of the box and push the bedding around it. The ice will keep the bedding cool and dampened it will stay that way until the cubes melt. In hot weather, worms will actually crowd around the container. The purpose of the plastic is to seal in condensation. Without the plastic, the soil could become too soggy for worms.

You can feed your night crawlers bits of cracker crumbs or cornmeal, if you wish to raise your own and always have them on hand.

Black Lake abounds in prime fish habitat including massive bays, expansive weedbeds, island drop-offs, midlake shoals, rocky points and rocky shorelines. Healthy populations of largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, bluegill, yellow perch, crappie, northern pike and walleye inhabit these fish-holding areas, and anglers who are “in the know” about seasonal fish location experience fish-filled outings.

• Bass
• Panfish
• Bluegill
• Yellow Perch

• Crappie
• Northern Pike
• Walleye
• Catfish & Bullhead

BASS

When bass season opens on the third Saturday in June, largemouths can be found in any of the Black Lake shallow-water bays. Both live bait and a variety of artificial will catch fish, but the number one producer of bucketmouths is the plastic worm.

From late July through August, largemouth fishing gets tougher as the water warms into the eighties and the lake sees increased boating and angling pressure. Top summer locations include heavy weedcover, island drop-offs, rocky points, and deep water adjacent to midlake shoals. Early morning and evening are the best fishing times. Live crabs are the top producer, but plastic worms, spinnerbaits, and deep-diving crankbaits also catch fish.

Black Lake’s best largemouth catches are made in the fall when anglers work midlake shoals, rocky points, and the rocky shorelines of the islands and the mainland. Live minnows work extremely well as do the jig and pig, spinnerbaits, and crankbaits.

Black Lake contains a thriving population of smallmouths, which can be taken from opening day until November 30. In June and early July an angler’s best bet is to work the rocky points. Shallow-running crankbaits produce the top catches.

Midsummer smallies move to the midlake structures, particularly those in the southern half of the lake. The fish inhabit deep water adjacent to the shoals although they will move into the shallows to feed under low-light conditions. Live crabs are the best bait followed by deep-diving crankbaits, which imitate crayfish.

Like the largemouths, smallmouth fishing peaks in the fall. As the water cools, bronzebacks spend more time on top of the shoals where they are more concentrated and more accessible to anglers. Minnows replace crabs as the best live bait, and shallow-running crankbaits replace the deep divers.

Panfish

Despite the excellent bass fishing on Black Lake, approximately half of the lake’s anglers pursue panfish instead of largemouths and small mouths. Since panfish thrive throughout Black Lake, seasonal location is not as critical as it is for bass. However, knowledge of location will improve catches on panfish outings.

Bluegill

Bluegills are quite plentiful and quite catchable. These fish move into bays and other marshy areas in late April through May where they remain until spawning is completed in mid-June. Throughout the summer, bluegill will school near weedlines, rock piles, and other structures. Although bluegill fishing is good throughout most of the year, fall fishing is generally slow.

Yellow Perch

Yellow perch can literally be taken anywhere in the lake in late spring and through the summer. Since small perch are so abundant, the most successful anglers constantly move until they locate schools of larger fish. In the fall, perch schools concentrate just off the rocky points.

Crappie

Black Lake’s most popular panfish is the black crappie. Like bluegill, the crappie migrate into the lake’s marshy bays in late April and early May. During the spawning period of late May and early June, papermouths congregate on rocky points. During the summer, crappie disperse throughout the lake, and anglers constantly move to locate fish as they do schools of perch. Fall crappie move to midlake shoals and rock piles.

Northern Pike

Northern pike normally spawn in Black Lake’s large, shallow, weedy bays (often abutting marshy wetlands). When the season opens on the first Saturday in May, they are usually found around new weed growth in the three to five foot depths of these bays. Drift and cast over the weeds with spoons, stickbaits, tandem spinnerbaits or in-line spinners. By mid-June, the the weededge has developed in six to seven feet of water and most pike relate to it in July. Drift the edge and cast the same early season lures. From August thru fall, since Black Lake is the same temperature from top to bottom, they can be found most anywhere.

However, most pike, especially the big guys, tend to go deep. try drifting along bottom structure in 12 to 16 foot depths with live baits, like 5 inch shiners or a six inch sucker or try vertical jigging a large tube jig. Black Lake’s best northern pike fishing usually takes place in winter. Big fish, some up to 12 lbs. are caught regularly. December is the prime month, but the action holds up all winter long. Most anglers put out a few tip-ups with large shiners while they jig for perch or crappie.

Walleye

After the season opens on the first Saturday in May, concentrate on areas with moving water, such as the Indian River, the narrows of Black Lake or the Oswegatchie River. In recent years they have been picking some up around mid-lake shoals. Jig the edges of weedbeds with black or yellow bucktails tipped with minnows or try slow trolling in deep water with a weighted Dixie Spinner nightcrawler harness. While walleye numbers are on the increase, the Black Lake Association, the Black Lake Fish and Game Club and the DEC have worked long and hard to bring the walleyes back to Black Lake. Please, keep a few for dinner but return all you can to help them get reestablished.

Cats & Bullhead

The best time of year for Black Lake Channel Cats is during their spawning season in late May and early June when they congregate in a few places such as Lower Deep Bay. Live baits are best {crabs, nightcrawlers and minnows}, but they’ll also hit jigs or even deep diving crankbaits. Work hard bottomed areas 10 to 15 feet deep.

For bullhead, still-fish nightcrawlers or leeches on the bottom. Action is usually best after dark but holds up all day long if it’s overcast. Concentrate on bays where the wind is blowing in.

Fisheries biologists have referred to Black Lake as a “fish factory”. In truth, the lake does produce excellent populations of fish. Locating these fish is both the fun and the challenge of fishing Black Lake.