A List of Fish to be caught in Black Lake. They’re in there, all you gotta do is CATCH’EM.

NOTE: Season and Limits listed below are for Black Lake only. Regulations vary throughout New York State.

This is, by no means, meant to be construed as a complete set of Regulations. These are just excerpts from the guide which is available in its entirety from any Dept. of Environmental Conservation Office or where you Purchase your Fishing license.

Please obtain a full copy and Obey our Conservation Laws.

Fishing License Requirements

• Everyone, except persons under 16 years of age, must have a valid fishing license in their possession while fishing.

License Privileges & Requirements

A Fishing License or Combined Hunting/Fishing License entitles the Holder to;

• Take fish by angling, spearing, hooking, long bow and tip-ups; take frogs by spearing, catching with the hands or by use of a club or hook; and take Bait fish for personal use, all as provided by the Laws and Regulations of the DEC.
• The holder of a License, Tag or Stamp shall have such License, Tag or Stamp on the holders person while exercising any privilege of that license.
• The holder of a License, Tag or Stamp shall exhibit it on demand to any Police Officer, Peace Officer or the Owner, Lessee or other person in control of the lands or waters on which the License holder is present.
• No License or Stamp authorizes the holder to Trespass upon private lands or waters or interfere with property belonging to another person.

Resident Fishing License

To qualify for a Resident Fishing License, One must;

• Be domiciled in New York State for more than 30 days immediately preceeding the date of application for a License ( Property Ownership is not required).
• Residency is that place where a person maintains a fixed, permanent and principle home and to which such person always intends to return, evidence of which includes that such person votes or is registered to vote in that place in elections for any Public office.

Purchasing a License

• Fishing licenses may be purchased Statewide from license issuing agents (town and county clerks, some major discount stores, and many sporting goods stores).
• Licenses may be obtained by mail using applications available from license issuing agents and submitted to: NYSDEC License Sales, Room 151, 50 Wolf Road, Albany, New York 12233-4790.

Everyone, except persons under 16 years of age, must have a valid fishing license in their possession while Fishing and Hunting.

New York Resident

Senior Sportsman $5
Seven-day Fishing $12
Fishing $19
Small & Big Game ¹ $19
Small Game $16
Trapping $16
Jr. Trapping $6
Sportsman $37
Bowhunting $16
Muzzleloading $16
Super Sportsman ² $68
Turkey Permit $5
Conservation Legacy  ³ $76

Nonresident

Fishing $40
Hunting $55
Big Game $110
Seven-day Fishing $25
Muzzleloading $110
Bowhunting $110
Bear Tag $30
Turkey Permit $30
Super Sportsman $250
Trapping $255

Resident & Nonresident

Jr. Small Game $5
Jr. Archery $9
One-day Fishing $15
Conservation Patron ⁴  $12
Habitat & Access Stamp ⁵  $5

Resident Lifetime Licenses

Sportsman ⁶
child under 5 yrs old $300
child 5-11 yrs old $420
12-64 yrs old $600
65 yrs and older $50
Small and Big Game $350
Fishing $350
Trapping $300
Bowhunting $180
Muzzleloading $180

To learn about equipment required aboard recreational vessels on New York State waters, please select one of the topics below.

Every pleasure vessel operated upon the waters of New York must carry at least one USCG approved Type I or II or III Personal Flotation Device (PFD), or Life Jacket as they are more commonly known, for each person on board. All PFDs on board your vessel must be:

• serviceable
  free of rot, tears, punctures, waterlogging and all straps functional.
• readily accessible
  quickly reachable in an emergency situation, never kept in plastic bags or under lock and key.
• appropriate size for the intended wearer
  check the USCG approval label for information on the intended user for a particular PFD.

Most of us don’t have enough natural buoyancy to keep afloat; a PFD is designed to make up the difference. You should periodically test your PFD in shallow water to see if it has sufficient buoyancy to keep you afloat. Many Type I and II PFDs consist of several kapok bags sewn into the device. Each bag must be airtight, otherwise water may seep into the bag causing the kapok to lose some or all of its buoyancy. You can test for leaks by squeezing the bags and listening for escaping air.

You should also check the straps and buckles of your PFD; a PFD will not work properly unless you are properly strapped into it. You should also check your PFD shell for tears in the fabric. Buoyant material may fall out of a tear. Leaving a PFD in with direct exposure to the sun may cause the shell fabric to severely weaken, and tear when worn.

If you are using a fully inflatable PFD, you should check the cylinder and lanyard before each use. You should also review the manufacturer’s instructions for establishing a maintenance schedule.
Exposure to oil or grease may cause deterioration as well; always store your PFDs in a dry, well ventilated place.

Children under the age of twelve must wear a Type I, II or III PFD on board a vessel unless they are in a fully enclosed cabin.

Effective for all waters, this type of lifejacket provides the most buoyancy. They are designed to turn most unconscious wearers in the water to a face-up position. There are two sizes: adult, with 22 lbs of buoyancy; and the children’s size with 11 lbs of buoyancy.

The near-shore buoyant vest is intended for calm, inland water, where there is a good chance of a quick rescue. This type of lifejacket will turn some wearers over, but not reliably. The adult vest provides 15.5 lbs of buoyancy, and the child’s vest 7 lbs.

Good for calm, inland water, where there is a good chance for immediate rescue. These are designed for special recreational activities such as water skiing. The Type III provides the same buoyancy as the Type II, but without any turning ability. They come in many colors and styles, and in general, are the most comfortable type of life jackets available.

These PFDs are designed to be thrown to a person in the water, and grasped and held until rescued. These devices are not intended to be worn. At least 1 Type IV PFD must be carried on all vessels 16′ or greater in length.

Special Use: Designed and approved for restricted uses or specific activities such as windsurfing or commercial whitewater rafting. This type of PFD is only acceptable when used for the activity for which it is designed. The label on the Type V PFD indicates the approved activity, restrictions or limitations, and equivalent performance type (whether its flotation is equivalent to a Type (I, II, OR III). If a Type V PFD is approved and identified for commercial use only, it does not satisfy requirements for recreational watercraft, unless otherwise specified. Special use Type V PFDs range in buoyancy from 15.5 to 22 pounds.

Hybrid Device: The hybrid Type V PFD uses inflation in addition to the type of buoyant flotation material found in traditional PFDS. To be acceptable for use on recreational craft, the hybrid Type V PFD must be worn, except when the boat is not under way, or when the boater is in an enclosed space, such as a boat cabin. It provides a minimum of 7.5 pounds of buoyancy when deflated, and 22 pounds when inflated. When fully inflated, a hybrid’s flotation performance is equivalent to that of a Type I, II, or III (the performance type will be marked on the label). A hybrid PFD is more comfortable than some other types of PFD because it is less bulky when deflated. Testing the hybrid in the water before use is recommended to determine whether the buoyancy inherent in the device when inflated provides sufficient flotation. For hybrids using CO 2 cartridges for inflation, the cartridges must be inspected periodically to ensure that they have not been spent. The user must accept the responsibility for the care of the device.

INFLATABLE PFDs

While the United States Coast Guard is now approving inflatable PFDs for use on recreational vessels, please keep in mind that while they are comfortable and lightweight, they are not suitable for non-swimmers, waterskiers, youths under the age of 12 and riders of personal watercraft.

• Outboards Less Than 26′ and of Open Construction – Exempt
• Less Than 26′ – One (1) USCG Approved Type B-1 Extinguisher
• 26′ to 40′ – Two (2) USCG Approved Type B-1 Extinguishers
• 40′ to 65′ – Three (3) USCG Approved Type B-1 Extinguishers
• On any vessel, a type B-II extinguisher may be substituted for two type B-1 extinguishers.
• Vessels equipped with approved fixed extinguishing systems may carry one less B-1 extinguisher.

The two most common types are Dry Chemical and Carbon Dioxide (CO2) extinguishers. Dry chemical is generally used on fires caused by flammable liquids such as fuel or grease (Class B fires) or electrical fires (Class C). CO2 extinguishers are effective against combustible solids (Class A) such as paper or wood as well as Class B or C fires.

Check your extinguishers frequently to ensure they are fully charged and undamaged. Check the pressure gauge or weigh it to determine the charge, and replace cracked or broken hoses. Also ensure that the hoses are clear of obstructions.

State law requires all mechanically propelled vessels 18 feet in length or greater to carry a distress flag, fluorescent orange in color and at least one foot square. In addition, these vessels must also carry three hand held red flares. The flares must be US Coast Guard approved. New flares generally have a three year service life, and the ones you carry must not be past their expiration date. Never use road flares on your boat; they produce hot slag which can drip and burn either you or your vessel.

There is some discrepancy between state and federal regulations for the carriage of visual distress signals (VDS). If you operate on the high seas, coastal waters or Great Lakes, the Coast Guard requires all vessels to carry visual distress signals. However, powerboats less than 16 feet, sailboats less than 26 feet, and all manually propelled vessels need only carry VDS when operating at night. Since the state has some jurisdiction in these areas, it is recommended that all vessels sixteen feet or greater in length carry at least three USCG approved hand held day/night flares at all times.

Vessels must display their required navigation lights at all times between sunset and sunrise, and during daylight periods of reduced visibility. Sail vessels less than 23 feet as well as manually propelled vessels may carry, in lieu of fixed lighting, a lantern with a white light that can be displayed in time to prevent a collision.

Law enforcement vessels may carry a blue, flashing light. No other vessels are permitted to carry a blue light. If you see this light, reduce speed, yield, and if necessary, stop your vessel.

Anchor Lights

All vessels between 7 (23.9′ ) and 50 (164.1′ ) meters in length, when at anchor, must exhibit an all around white light. By day, a black ball shape shall be exhibited.

Anchor

All mechanically propelled vessels must carry an anchor and line of sufficient weight and strength to provide the vessel with safe anchorage. Select an anchor for the types of waters in which you’ll be operating. The anchor line should be between 4 and 7 times the depth of the water in which you would normally anchor.

Whistle or Horn

All mechanically propelled vessels 26 feet and greater in length must carry a mechanical whistle or horn capable of producing a blast of two or more seconds in duration. On vessels less than 26 feet in length a mouth whistle may be used.

Bell

All vessels 26 feet and greater in length are required to have a bell. The purpose of the bell is to comply with the rules of the road when anchored or grounded in reduced visibility.

Other Recommended Equipment

• Tool kit
• First Aid kit
• Oar/Paddle
• Radio
• Spare lines
• Binoculars

Dead and dying fish are an ugly sight. Truth is, most species of fish are relatively short-lived and have a high rate of mortality. Even large fish, too large to be eaten by predators such as bass and pike, experience a death rate of approximately 50% per year. Fortunately, the deaths are usually spread-out over the year and are rarely observed or become a problem except when concentrated as a “fish kill”. The condition called “fish kill” occurs when a number of fish in a given body of water die from a specific cause. Most of the time, fish kills are due to natural causes over which we have no control, such as weather. Only occasionally is death directly related to pollution or improper use of herbicides or other chemicals. Only a fraction of the dead fish are ever observed because many decompose on the bottom or are eaten by scavengers such as turtles and crayfish. Natural fish kills are of three basic seasonal types:

• WINTER KILL, which occurs in late winter but may not be seen until early spring.
• SPRING KILL, which is occurs in late May to early June
• SUMMER KILL, which occurs on the hottest days of mid summer.

WINTER KILL

Winter kill is the most common type of fish kill. When severe, it has devastating effects on fish populations and fishing quality. Winter kill occurs during especially long, harsh winters. Shallow lakes with excess amounts of aquatic vegetation and mucky bottoms are prone to this problem. The results of a winter kill are seldom noticed until spring when the ice melts. Then the dead fish, often the larger ones, are seen washing up along the edge. Because they require more oxygen, the large fish suffocate and die first. Winter kill begins with distressed fish gasping for air at holes in the ice and ends with large numbers of dead fish which bloat as the water warms in early spring. Dead fish may appear fuzzy because of secondary infection by fungus, but the fungus was not the cause of death.

Actually, the fish suffocated from lack of dissolved oxygen. Trace amounts of dissolved oxygen (measured in parts per million, ppm) are required by fish and all other forms of aquatic life. Even living plants and the bacteria that decompose organic materials on the bottom of the lake require oxygen. As a rule of thumb, the critical level of oxygen is about 2 ppm for most game fish native to warmwater lakes, and levels below 1 ppm for extended periods of time are lethal.

But species of fish vary in their tolerance of low oxygen. Trout are most sensitive; walleye, bass, and bluegill have intermediate sensitivity; and northern pike, yellow perch, and pumpkinseed are relatively tolerant. Bullheads and certain minnows are very tolerant. Lakes prone to periodic winterkill can often be detected from the composition of their fish populations – tolerant species predominate, sensitive species are rare, and prey greatly outnumber predators. Fortunately, usually enough fish survive, either in the lake or in connecting waters, to repopulate the lake in a couple of years. Only for extreme die-offs is fish restocking necessary.

The dissolved oxygen content of water depends primarily on three variables. These are the amount of mixing with the air above the lake, the rate of oxygen production by plants, and the rate of oxygen consumption (respiration) by living aquatic organisms. During periods of prolonged ice cover, the lake is sealed off from the atmosphere and cannot be recharged with oxygenated air. Furthermore, ice and snow reduce the amount of sunlight reaching aquatic plants, thereby reducing photosynthesis and oxygen production. (During photosynthesis, living plants use sunlight energy and carbon dioxide to make plant tissue and dissolved oxygen). Meanwhile, on-going consumption of oxygen depletes the supply of oxygen stored in the lake when the lake froze over. Shallow, productive lakes are at a disadvantage because they have a low storage capacity and high rates of oxygen-consuming decomposition.

In northern NY, January is usually a critical period and is the best time to check the oxygen content of lakes prone to winterkill. A good midwinter thaw about then often recharges the lake’s oxygen supply by means of photosynthesis and melt water. Conversely, a prolonged winter, with continuous snow cover and late ice-out, increases the chance of winterkill.

The only long-term solution for winterkill lakes is to reverse the natural process of filling and enrichment (eutrophication). Dredging or sucking bottom sediments can increase the volume of water, reduce the nutrient-rich sediment, and reduce the growth of nuisance plants. However, such projects are extremely costly, require a site for disposing of the bottom material, and may require a permit. Lake residents can help slow down the rate of eutrophication by keeping all types of plant fertilizers out of the lake.

SPRING KILL

Spring kill occurs in lakes and rivers when fish survive the winter but die as the water warms rapidly in May and June. It rarely claims many fish and is usually over in a couple of weeks. Spring kill is almost always due to natural causes beyond our influence. The usual victims are large bluegills and crappies, and other fish which spawn in the spring such as perch, bass, pike and suckers.

A combination of stresses is usually responsible. Fish come through the winter in a weakened condition because they’ve been eating at a reduced rate. As the water warms, their metabolism increases and they divert much energy to strenuous spawning activities. In lakes, additional stress may be added during “turnover”, which is when wave action stirs up bottom water low in oxygen and high in noxious gases. Diseases and parasites also become more active and on a few occasions have been implicated in fish kills.

SUMMER KILL

Summer kill The most common cause of summer fish kill is the same as winter kill oxygen depletion. But the causes of depletion may be more complex than with winter kills. Summer depletion can result from oxygen removal by excessive quantities of plants, animals or decaying organic mater. This can be caused by overstocking, overfeeding, over fertilization, pollution from barns, feedlots, improper septic drainage, or chemical treatment of aquatic weeds during the critical months June through September.

Another common cause of summer fish kills occurs when a dense growth of submerged aquatic plants or algae in a pond dies suddenly from natural causes or from herbicides.

The decay process from the dead plants may use up the oxygen in the water. This type of summer fish kill almost always happens about sunrise, when the dissolved oxygen is at its low point for the day.

Another condition leading to summer fish kill, and related to the plant die-off, is high water temperatures. During July, and especially in August, water temperatures in ponds may reach 85°-95°F. Water can hold much less oxygen when its temperature is above 80°F.

When overcast skies persist for several days, while temperatures are high and winds are calm, a fish kill may occur. Plants cannot produce sufficient oxygen at reduced light levels and calm weather reduces the exposure of water to oxygen in the air. Therefore, the dissolved oxygen may disappear entirely.

Lightning strike A very unique type of fish kill is caused by a lightning strike on water. Death occurs immediately. Large fish, which draw more electricity than small fish, may be killed selectively.

In conclusion, the risk of some types of fish kills can be reduced by keeping as many nutrients out of the water as possible. Sources of nutrients include septic fields, fertilized lawns and farm fields, and wastes from livestock and waterfowl (including tame geese). Reducing nutrient input starts the following favorable chain reaction: production by aquatic plants is reduced, less decomposition is required, and oxygen will not become depressed to critical levels.

Natural fish kills are obnoxious, and may affect fishing and predator-prey “balance” for years. However, they are often not serious in the long run because lakes contain thousands of fish per acre. They may be thought of as nature’s way of thinning out fish populations. Usually, fish kills indicate that the habitat is of marginal quality for certain species because of a broad range of weather conditions. Infrequently, fish kills indicate habitat or pollution problems we may be able to correct. And sometimes, fish kills beneficially reduce over-populated, slow-growing panfish and actually increase growth rates and improve fishing.

Before Black Lake is permanently damaged, the Black Lake Invasive Weed Committee was formed by concerned Black Lake businesses and landowners to preserve its beauty for future generations to enjoy.

The first requirement was to hire a consultant firm to study the lake and create a lake management plan. The plan must then be submitted to and approved by the DEC. Thanks to your generous response to our fund raising letter, the management plan should be ready for submission to the DEC by June 2008.

After we have the management plan approved, we will be able to write for grants and work with concerned local and state politicians to help direct some of the state conservation dollars to Black Lake so the management plan can begin to be implemented.

Our letter campaign has generated enough to cover the necessary consulting fees, but the management plan will be costly. While we are working hard to secure grants and state conservation dollars, we need to show them that residents and tourists truly care about Black Lake and are willing to help support our efforts to control the Eurasian Milfoil.

It is our hope that people who use the lake, both tourists and landowners, will want to help us in our quest to control these weeds and restore our lake’s beauty and reputation as being a “fisherman’s paradise.”

Please send a generous tax deductible donation made payable to:

The Black Lake Invasive Weed Committee,
PO Box 12,
Hammond, NY 13646
Thank You!

View or Download our Brochure Here

Remember the GOLDEN RULE

“Do unto others as you would have them do unto you!”

• Do initial launch preparations away from the ramp so as not to impede launching for others.
• Raise the outdrive or motor, remove the support bracket and install the drain plug.
• Disconnect the trailer wiring.
• Remove tie down straps.
• Check the drain plug
• Make any equipment adjustments necessary.
• Connect the fuel tank, check fluid levels.
• One last time- Check the drain plug. Better safe than on the bottom.
• Drive to the ramp and back the boat and trailer down the ramp, keeping the tow vehicle’s wheels out of the water.
• Set the emergency brake, shift into Park, and block the wheels.
• Someone should get aboard the boat, boats with I/O’s should turn on the blower, lower the motor, look for water entering the boat, sniff the bilge for gasoline oder and start the motor.
• Make sure you have attached a bow line to the boat, then release the winch and disconnect the winch line.
• You should be able to launch the boat with a slight shove or by backing the boat off the trailer under power.
• Return the towing vehicle to the parking lot as soon as the boat is launched so the next person in line may proceed.
• Move the boat to an area away from the ramp to load additional equipment and passengers.

The steps for retrieving the boat are essentially the reverse of launching and you should keep in mind being courteous of others launching and retrieving.

• Unload the boat away from the ramp if possible.
• Back the trailer into the water, again keeping the tires of the tow vehicle at waters edge, not in the water.
• Maneuver the boat carefully onto the submerged trailer, attach a bow line and shut off the engine prior to raising it.
• Winch the boat onto the trailer and secure it.
• Drive the trailer and boat out of the ramp for cleanup, reloading, securing equipment and safety check.
• Remove the drain plug to allow water to drain from the bilge.

PFDs are important potential life saving devices. You are required to have one wearable PFD for each passenger on the boat. Make sure when selecting a PFD that it is Coast Guard approved and is designed for the wearers size and weight. They should be stowed where readily accessible. (Readily accessible does not include being in the plastic wrapper in which it came or stowed forward in the v-berth under 5 cases of soda.) Non-swimmers and children should always wear a PFD whenever near the water or on a boat. The US Coast Guard and most states require, by law, that non-swimmers and children 12 or under wear a PFD whenever in a boat of less than 40 feet in length. In addition, vessels 16 feet and greater in length should also carry a type IV throwable PFD. It is recommended that ALL passengers in a boat that is underway wear their PFD.

** State Regulations are fairly uniform, and in many cases closely follow Federal Regulations. However, it’s recommended that you check your own state boating regulations for variations.

You should never leave the dock without first checking the local weather forecast. You can get weather information from TV, radio or from one of the weather channels on your VHF radio. At certain times of the year weather can change rapidly and you should continually keep an eye out, especially to the south and west, in order to foresee changes which might be impending.
There are indicators that you can look for that indicate an approaching weather change:

• Weather changes generally come from the south or west so scan the sky.
• A sudden drop in temperature and change in the wind often mean that a storm is near.
• Watch for cloud build up, especially rapid vertically rising clouds.

NEVER boat or fish in a thunderstorm. With thunder comes lightning and lightning WILL kill you. A bolt of lightning can travel a distance of over 20 miles. Take shelter before the storm arrives (NOT under a tree). If you are caught out in a storm, ditch your gear – carbon fiber and metal attract lightning – and lie flat well away from your gear and trees. Don’t use a boat if there’s a chance of a thunderstorm and if you get caught afloat get to shore as quickly as possible.

Never run too fast for conditions. If the water is rough slow down. Remember that your passenger’s safety and comfort are your responsibility! Do not create a wake within 100 feet of any shore, dock or anchored boat. You are legally responsble for any property damage, injury or death resulting from a wake created by your boat.

Not every boater is a pleasure boater. Fishermen, either trolling, at anchor or drifting deserve your respect. When operating around boaters who are fishing, take extra care to control your wake. People often stand up in their boat to cast or reel in a fish. Your wake could tip the boat and cause someone to fall overboard. Remember you are responsible for your wake. Do not invade their territory. Fishermen deserve their fare share of the water as well.

Never crowd other fishermen. If you see another angler fishing a bank, anticipate the direction he’s moving and do not move to the end of the bank – let him finish fishing it. Never run between a fisherman and the point or bank he’s fishing. Give other anglers and boaters a wide berth.

If you are the boater who is fishing, remember never to anchor in narrow channels or shipping lanes and never tie up to aides to navigation.

Do not operate your boat around hunters. Generally hunters don’t want to be around other boaters any more than other boaters want to be around those hunting from boats or shorelines. As a rule, if you see someone in a boat or on a shoreline who appears to be hunting just keep clear.

If another boater signals for help or assistance, respond immediately. You, too, may need help someday.

There are no crowds of boaters on lakes and rivers in the colder months of the year. Fishermen work their favorite spots nearly undisturbed. On inland waters migrating waterfowl appear in the fall and return again in the spring as soon as the ice goes out. The fine, breezy days of spring and fall are the best of days for many anglers.

There are trade-offs for these blessings. The water is cold (less than 60° F) in the off-season. More than half of the fatal boating accidents occur when the water is cold. Most such accidents occur in calm weather relatively close to shore. Because fewer boaters are on the water, the likelihood of a prompt rescue is greatly reduced. Off-season boaters must be as self-sufficient as possible.

Immersion in cold water rapidly incapacitates and may kill boaters who are not wearing protective clothing. Surfers, sailboarders and river paddlers wear wetsuits or drysuits when the water is cold. Off-season sailors, anglers, hunters and other folks out in open boats can use these same precautions to greatly improve their safety on the water. What happens in cold water?

Water removes heat from the body 25 times faster than cold air. About 50% of that heat loss occurs through the head. Physical activity such as swimming or other struggling in the water increases heat loss. Survival time can be reduced to minutes. Strong swimmers have died before swimming 100 yards in cold water. In water under 40° F, victims have died before swimming 100 feet.

1. Without a life jacket, a victim may inhale while under water (involuntary gasping reflex) and drown without coming back to the surface. This can only be prevented by wearing a life jacket at all times on cold water. There is no second chance.
2. Exposure of the head and chest to cold water causes sudden increases in heart rate and blood pressure that may result in cardiac arrest.
3. Other responses to cold water immersion result in immediate loss of consciousness and drowning.

Hypothermia (decreased body temperature) develops more slowly than the immediate effects of cold shock. Survival curves show that an adult dressed in average clothing may remain conscious for an hour at 40° F and perhaps 2-3 hours at 50° F (water temp.). The crisis is more serious than these numbers suggest. Any movement in the water accelerates heat loss. Survival time can be reduced to minutes. Hands become numb and useless. Without thermal protection, swimming is not possible. The victim, though conscious, is soon helpless. Without a life jacket, drowning is unavoidable.

Even with a wetsuit/drysuit on, one’s hands rapidly become useless in water in the low 40’s° F. Protective fingerless gloves for fishermen can be important. Shivering occurs as body temperature drops from 97° F down to about 90° F. Uncontrolled rapid breathing follows the initial gasping response and may cause loss of consciousness. The victim must attempt to recover control of his/her breathing rate.

Muscle rigidity and loss of manual dexterity, physical helplessness, occurs at about 93° F. Mental capacity also deteriorates at this point. Unconsciousness occurs when the body’s core temperature reaches about 86° F. If drowning doesn’t occur first, death occurs at a core temperature of about 80° F.

Try to get back in or on your boat immediately. Do not leave the boat. If you are not wearing thermal protection and cannot get out of the water, stay as still as possible. Fold arms, cross legs and float quietly on the buoyancy of your PFD until help arrives. If two or more people are in the water, put your arms around one another. Stay still and close together (Huddle posture).

On Memorial Day, 1996, an 18-year old canoeist capsized into 50° F lake water. He sank to the bottom before a rescuer in a boat towing the canoe could reach him. He was wearing blue jeans, a light shirt and no life jacket. His body was recovered the next day by divers. Your ability to survive accidental immersion will depend on how you prepared yourself before going out.

Dressing for the possibility of immersion helps buy time to work out a rescue in case of an accident. Warm weather does not cancel out the danger of cold water. Instead, wearing lighter clothing on warm days may increase risk

1. Mild hypothermia. (victim shivering but coherent). Move victim to place of warmth. Remove wet clothes, give warm, sweet drinks; no alcohol or caffeine. Keep victim warm for several hours.
2. Moderate hypothermia. (shivering may decrease or stop). Victim may seem irrational with deteriorating coordination. Same as above but no drinks. Victim should be kept lying down with torso, thighs, head and neck covered with dry clothes, coats or blankets to stop further heat loss. Seek medical attention immediately.
3. Severe hypothermia. (shivering may have stopped. Victim may resist help or be semi-conscious or unconscious). Removed from water, victim must be kept prone, on back and immobile. Victim must be handled gently. Cover torso, thighs, head and neck with dry covers to stop further heat loss. Arms and legs must not be stimulated in any manner. Cold blood in extremities, that suddenly returns to the core, may induce cardiac arrest. Seek medical attention immediately.
4. Victim appears dead. Little or no breathing or pulse, body rigid. Assume victim can be revived. Look for faint pulse or breathing for two minutes. If any trace is found, do not give CPR. It can cause cardiac arrest. Medical help is imperative. If pulse and breathing are totally absent, CPR should be started by trained medical personnel.

Wear clothing that permits safe cold-water immersion and a life jacket. It is the only way to combat the risk posed by cold-water boating.

The common advice to wear layers of wool (nylon, polypropylene) is misleading. These fabrics do not effectively retard heat loss in cold water. They are warm when damp, after being wrung out, due to air trapped in the fibers. They must be worn inside a waterproof barrier (shell) having neoprene or latex gaskets at ankles, waist, wrists and neck. Fleece lined “wetsuit grade” polartec clothing is rated equal to 2.5 mm neoprene and is comfortable under outer clothes. Such clothing ($100-300) may be found in catalogs & shops that serve river paddlers and windsurfers.

Carry dry clothing in a water proof bag. Tie a bailer and paddle to your boat. Evaluate the flotation in your boat. A short sling tied to the transom, with a foot rest in the loop, may assist boat re-entry. Attach a whistle or horn to your life jacket.

Tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Inform them of your return. Check the weather forecast for the day.

On cold water, you are depending on one another for prompt rescue in case of an accident.

U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary
Department of Education
ADVISORY CIRCULAR
Number 3-97 — 1 October 1997 — L.Daniel Maxim, DC-E

Deep cycle batteries are used to power fish finders and trolling motors on a boat and radios or lights in an RV/camper and are designed differently than the battery you use to start your car. The automotive battery in your car is asked to deliver only short bursts of energy to start your auto and then the alternator takes over, providing the electrical power to run the car and recharge the slightly discharged battery. A deep cycle marine or RV battery, on the other hand, is asked to go through many deep discharges. Often, that battery is completely discharged before it is recharged. This is called “deep cycling.” Timely and proper care of your Marine/RV Batteries will ensure trouble-free operations.

The following 4 steps should be followed in maintaining your marine/RV Battery during seasonal usage:

1. Recharge deep cycle batteries as soon as possible after use. Allowing batteries to sit in a discharged state for a prolonged period of time is damaging to the future capacity of the battery.
2. Prior to recharge be sure the electrolyte level within each cell is at a point slightly below the split ring splash barrel (about 1/8″ below this point). If water has to be added, deionized or distilled water is recommended; however, any water suitable for drinking is preferred to none at all. Never allow electrolyte levels to be as high as splash barrels or as low as plate tops.
3. Keep top of battery free of dirt and/or moisture. If battery is kept in a plastic marine battery box, be sure box is clean and dry.
4. Clean battery terminals, cable connectors and all accessory connectors regularly (every month or so).

To ensure peak performance and long life your Deep Cycle Marine/RV Batteries should be recharged as soon as possible after each use (preferably within 24 hours). Any 10-15 amp charger will be adequate to recharge your batteries. A charger with a timer is recommended to reduce possible overcharge. Overcharging results in grid corrosion and water loss thereby reducing battery life and increasing maintenance (water addition).

Prior to hooking up your battery to the charger read the charger instructions thoroughly and follow steps outlined for recharge.

Check electrolyte level to be sure your battery is ready for recharge.

Use the following Chart 1 to determine approximate times of recharge @ 5, 10, and 15 amps for your deep cycle batteries.

Chart 1

*The above recharge times assume 5% more recharge than theoretical actual, i.e., 105%. This will ensure total recharge of battery plus thorough mixing of electrolyte.

Refer to the chart below to determine state of charge of a battery. If you use a taper charger, i.e., one in which the current drops off as the voltage of the battery rises, recharge times will generally be 4-5 hours more than those shown in the chart. Usually, when a taper charger is used, overnight charging is recommended. At the end of an overnight taper charge the current going into the battery will be approximately 1 amp or less; this will be a good indication that the battery is fully charged.

Chart 2

When the battery falls below a 75% state of charge as determined by Chart 2, charge battery overnight according to charger instructions.

After a battery comes off charge, wait a day before checking voltage to determine the state of charge. Final 100% state of charge readings should be 1.265 specific gravity and 12.7 volts.

If this maintenance schedule is followed during prolonged storage, your Deep Cycle Marine/RV Battery will provide peak performance, the next time you use it.

Listed here are six simple steps to follow to ensure that your Marine/RV Battery will be ready for use after extended storage:

1. Remove battery from boat or RV. Brush battery terminals and cable connectors with a wire brush. This is an opportune time to perform general “house cleaning” in the vicinity of the battery. Sponge this area clean with a neutralizing solution (1/2 box baking soda to 1/2 gallon water), and dry thoroughly.
2. Inspect cables and cable connectors. Repair or replace cable with frayed or broken insulation. Replace broken, cracked or pitted cable connectors.
3. Prior to storage, charge battery overnight according to charger instructions
4. Store battery in a cool, dry place. The cooler the environment, the slower the self-discharge rate. A temperature range of 40°F to 50°F is ideal. DO NOT store battery in an unheated building or in areas where temperatures will consistently go below freezing (32°F).
5. Use a voltmeter or hydrometer to check the state of charge every six to eight weeks.
   NOTE – When using a hydrometer, be sure to temperature correct all readings.
   Refer to Chart 2 above to determine state of charge of a battery.

If this maintenance schedule is followed during prolonged storage, your Deep Cycle Marine/RV Battery will provide peak performance, the next time you use it.

Remember a battery is a perishable commodity. If maintained properly, it will provide years of trouble-free service.

When you take away days you have to work, days when the temperatures are way too hot or way too cold, days you have to attend weddings, funerals, birthday parties, family vacations, family reunions, business meetings, days when you’re a bit under the weather, and that big block of time known as winter – what you have left is the fishing season. And in late fall the fishing season begins its gradual fading into a distant memory, your attention turns to winterizing the fishin’ rig. The time and effort you spend now will have a definite effect on your rig’s performance, or lack of it, and certainly save you time, effort and money come spring. Remember, most insurance policies do not cover damage done by lack of maintenance or neglect.

Your first step in winterizing should be to make a checklist of all items that need to be accomplished. Check the owner’s manual of your boat, motor and trailer for manufacturer’s recommendations on winterization. If you are a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ the assistance of a friend with experience in winterizing or hire a professional to do the job. The following is a generic outline of areas which should be of concern to you.

The best protection for the your boat is to store it inside. This protects the boat exterior against harmful UV rays, winds, snow, rain and extreme temperature changes, all of which affect gelcoat, varnish, and gear. If inside storage is not possible make sure that your boat is well covered with a tarp or some other sturdy cover.

Pull the drain plug and open livewell drains.

Make sure the livewells are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean. Once the livewells are clean, blow out all intake and discharge lines. Add a little RV antifreeze to prevent any remaining water from freezing. To allow for air circulation use a small block of wood to prevent livewell lids from fully closing.

Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean up any oil spills. Once the bilges are clean, spray with a moisture displacing lubricant and add a little RV antifreeze to prevent any water from freezing.

Remove any valuables, fishing rods, tackle, trolling motor, electronics, dock & anchor lines, PFD, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, etc. Over the winter these items can be cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary. Open all drawers and lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring them home to a climate controlled area. To allow for air circulation use a small block of wood to prevent compartment lids from fully closing. Thoroughly vacuum all carpeted areas. Place small open containers of moth balls in the front and back of the boat to keep unwanted critters from crawling under the cover or tarp and using your boat for a winter residence.

Pressure wash hull. Check the hull for blisters and if you find any that should be attended to you might want to open them to drain over the winter. While you’re at it, why not give the hull a good wax job?

Disconnect the battery cables, remove the battery(s) from the boat. Clean the terminal ends and battery with a solution of baking soda and water, rinse thoroughly with clean water. Apply a light coat of grease on the terminal end of the battery and cables. Store the battery in a cool dry place. Do not store the battery on a concrete floor. Use a battery box or set it on a block of wood. Use a trickle charger once a month to keep battery charged. Do not charge battery near any open flame or in a confined area.

For Inboard tanks – Fill your fuel tank(s) to avoid a build up of condensation over the winter months. Using a fuel stabilizer such as STA-BIL^® will stabilize fresh fuel and protect an engine’s fuel system up to 15 months when used as directed.

Using STA-BIL^®in all types of power equipment when the fuel is still fresh is an inexpensive and effective way to protect engines and treat your gas for quick starts next season. STA-BIL^® contains proprietary additives designed to reduce oxidation and metal corrosion of gasoline and diesel fuels. These additives prevent the fuel from oxidizing which can cause the build up of gum and varnish in your fuel system. In simpler terms, STA-BIL^® surrounds “good” fuel molecules with a coating so that oxygen can not “break down” the fuel molecules into “bad” gum and varnish.  Make sure you run the engine for a few minutes after adding STA-BIL^® so that it can work its way through the entire fuel system.

Note-Part of the above was taken from the Gold Eagle^® website.

If the outboard has portable fuel tanks, disconnect the fuel hose from both the tank and engine. Close the fuel tank filler cap vent screw. Add a fuel stabilizer by following the instructions on the product label. Store fuel tanks in a well-ventilated area away from heat or flame.

It is also recommended that you consult your owners manual for the manufacturers recommendations on how to handle fuel in your winterization process.

Flush engine with fresh water using flush muffs or similar device attached to the raw water pickup. Let all water drain from the engine. Wash engine down with soap and water and rinse thoroughly.
If your outboard is oil injected, fill the oil tank and reserve with factory recommended oil to prevent condensation from forming inside the tank during storage.

Fog the engine with fogging oil to prevent rust. Fogging oil is formulated to stick to the cylinders and not slide down the walls. To lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons spray some of the fogging oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes once the engine has cooled down. Check the spark plugs and replace them as necessary.

Change the gear oil in the lower unit and check for excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be repaired.

Remove and inspect prop. Check the prop for nicks and dents. Even slight damage can hinder performance. Worse yet, blade damage can cause vibration, damaging other engine parts and the drive system. Some damaged props can be repaired by marine dealers for a fraction of the cost of a new one.

Grease all fittings.

Lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax.

You should run the engine to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. This tends to allow impurities to be drained away with the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush the engine with fresh water. You should circulate antifreeze through the manifold by using a pickup hose from the waterpump to a bucket of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the antifreeze to circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust. This process will vary slightly depending on whether you have a Raw Water cooling system or an Enclosed Fresh Water cooling system. While you’re in the engine room you should also change the fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use fogging oil to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop towel sprayed with a little fogging oil or WD-40.

You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plant life or barnacles from the lower unit. Remove and inspect prop. Check the props for nicks and dents. Even slight damage can hinder performance. Worse yet, blade damage can cause vibration, damaging other engine parts and the drive system. Some damaged props can be repaired by marine dealers for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads. Drain the gear case and check for excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap and water. If your stern drive has a rubber boot, check it for cracks or pinholes. Grease all fittings and check fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check with your owner’s manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer.

After you’re finished winterizing your boat and motor, don’t forget to winterize your trailer. Here are some tips to ensure that your trailer is road-ready next spring.

Consider jacking up the trailer and supporting the weight on three or four jack stands. This will help the tires last longer and to keep the tires from “flat spotting” due to sitting for six months in the same position during cold temperatures. The jack stands should have a sheet of 3/4″ plywood, about 18″ square, placed under them if the trailer is parked on grass or dirt to prevent the jack stands from sinking into the ground.

Check the lug nuts and tighten them. Check tire inflation. The correct inflation pressure is molded into the sidewall. Now is a good time to rotate the trailer tires. If applicable, check brakes and brake fluid.

Lubricate all rollers, pivot points, the winch, and the coupler. This is also the time to add grease to the bearing protectors, or pull the wheels and repack the bearings. Your dealer can advise you whether repacking or replacement is necessary. The dealer can best perform this maintenance because repacking or replacing the hub’s inner parts requires special tools for components with specific tolerances.

Rust spreads easily, so inspect your trailer. Sand off and prime any rust spots you find.

Look for signs of cracking or metal fatigue. Tighten bolts and screws and inspect the electrical system for worn wires or loose connections. The bulb bases inside taillights can be sprayed with WD-40 to keep moisture out.
Store the trailer for adequate drainage so that the bow of the boat is slightly higher than the stern.

By following some of the above suggestions you should be in good shape for the winter. Do not, however, neglect to consult your owner’s manuals for manufacture’s recommendations on winterizing your boat and other systems. If you have not done a winterization job before or don’t have an experienced friend to rely on seek out a professional to do the job for you.